Hansen Heritage House Moulding Duplication
Hansen Heritage House Moulding Duplication I haven't shown much of the restoration shop work on our web site, but decided to start doing so as much of my last two summers has been devoted to rebuilding our porch and replacing old millwork on the exterior of the house. Some day (soon I hope) I get all those pictures displayed. One of the many tasks not finished last summer was to replace rotten moulding near the roof edge. Now that warmer weather is setting in, I decided to take a weekend off from finishing the garage cabinets and put some time into milling new moulding to replace the rotten stuff. This process is really straight forward but does take some investment in a planar-moulder and knives; however, we've used these tools so much that they have paid for themselves many times over.
Like many of the projects,
I begin by thickness planing stock to 7/8". Here I show a
board getting shaved to thickness in the Powermatic.
After both sides are smooth
and the total thickness is 7/8", one of the edges needs to
be made straight so that the boards can be accurately ripped to
width. This is done on the jointer. Because the boards are long,
I built infeed and outfeed tables as shown in the photos. These
work really nice once they are alligned with the jointer bed.
The first photo shows feather board positioning to keep stock
tight against the fence. The second photo shows the stock getting
an edge jointed.
Now that three sides have been
surfaced, I use the smooth, straight edge to align with my table
saw fence and rip the the moulding stock to width. This process
is not shown, but here's what 150 lineal feet of stock looks like
at this point in the process.
It's time to switch to a moulding
blade in the planer. It's been a while since I've removed the
thickness blades, so they're probably ready to be sharpened. Here's
what the inside of the Powermatic planar looks like with straight
blades in it.
Now I remove the straight blades
and clean out the cutter head grove so that the cove moulding
blade will fit snuggly in place. These photos show the clean grove
and a positoned cornice moulding blade.
Finally it's time to setup
guides for the stock to rest against. I use C-clamps and a scrap
piece of plywood to center stock under the moulding blade.
I take two passes to form the
face side of this moulding as shown below.
Here's a comparison to the
110 year old moulding removed from our porch last fall. Although
there are minor differences, the match is not too bad. Now I need
to make the backside angle cuts on the tablesaw.
I set up the featherboards
on the tablesaw to make sure the moulding will run tight against
my fence. I also had to use an auxillary fence as the standard
fence was not high enough to support this moulding. Then I tilt
the blade to the appropriate angle and run all the pieces through
for both edges.
Finally the moulding is complete.
Here's an old to new comparison. Not bad, and I'm sure making
use of that bargain pine!! Now I need to treat, prime, paint and
install the moulding. I'll put up a snapshot of the final installed
product when I'm done. If you are interested, this is part of
our 2002 painting project. Be sure
to visit that too.
